hallenbeck



(NoModeL) I r 4 Sheets-Sheet 1. J. P. HALLENBEGK & H. L.. PHELPS.

SEWING MAGHINE FOR STITGHING BUTTON HOLES, EYELET HOLES, &c. No. 310,677. Patented Jan. 13, 1885.

\NITNEEEEE: 4 INVENTGRSI M m f. M444,

(No Model.) 4 Shets-Sheet 2.

J. P. HALLENBEOK & H. L. PHELPS. SEWING MACHINE FOR STITOHING BUTTON HOLES. EYELET HOLES, &0.

INVEN'gJRSI arm/4A avfw X, 5%, L QL WM,M

h. PETERS. PholwLikhngmphun Wasnmgton. u. c.

(No Model.) 4 Sheets-Sheet :3 J. P. HALLENBEGK 82; H. L. PHELPS.

SEWING MACHINE FOR STITOHYINGBUTTON'HOLES, EYELET HOLES, &c. No. 310,677. Patented Jan. 13,1885.

u ulj; z 7 Z a \NITNESEEST INVENTOREZ (No Model.) I 4 4 SheetsSheet 4.

J. P. HALLENBEOK & H; L. PHELPS.

SEWING MACHINE FOR STITGHING BUTTON HOLES, EYELET HOLES, 82:0. NQ. 310,677. ARa tentedJan. 13, 1885.

rrrcn.

JOSEPH P. HALLENBEOK, OF NEV YORK, N. Y., AND HERBERT L. PHELPS,

OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, ASSIGNORS TO THE NATIONAL MACHINE GOM- PANY, on NEW YORK, N. Y.

SEWING-MACHINE FOR STITCHING BUTTON-HOLES, EYELET-HOLES, dc.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 310,677, dated January 13, 1885.

7 Application filed April 4, 1894. (No model.)

.l'lc til/l Mil b07111 it may concern:

Be it known that we, Josnrn I. HALLEN- BECK, a citizen of the United States, residing in the city of New York, in the State of New York, and IIERBER'F L. PHELPS, a citi-- zen of the United States, residing in the city of Chicago, in the State of Illinois, have jointly invented new and useful Improvements in SewingMachines for Stitching But- 10 ton-Holes, Eyelet-Holcs, and other articles, and of which invention the following is a specification, reference being had to the accompanying drawings.

This invention relates, mainly, to improve ments in sewing-machines furnished with a work-holder and means for imparting to the work-holder intermittent momentary to and fro lateral movements and step'by-step progressive movements, whereby a row of zigzag 2o to-andafro or over-edge stitches can be produced.

The general objects of these improvements are to provide means for introducing a purling or filling thread, so as to cause the needlethread to be looped around the filling or purling thread at each stitch or at each to or fro movement of the work-ho1der, to secure ac curacy and uniformity in the location and formation of the row of to and fro stitches 0 as the work is fed to and fro and progress ively to the needle by the work-holder, and to provide improved means for operating a supplemental press'cr a-ndthe purling-thread carrier.

In carrying out this invention we use any suitable sewing-machine which produces the lock stitch, chain stitch, or other suitable stitch, and which is furnished with any suitable work-holder, and means for imparting to the 0 work-holder intermittent momentary to and fro movements and a progressive movement, so as to produce a row of zigzag to-and-fro or over-edge stitches.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 5 represents in perspective one form of our invention applied to a No. 7 Vheeler and \Vilson sewing-machine, furnished with a workholder and mechanism like that described in United States Patent No. 273, 727, granted to Joseph P. Hallenbeck, March 13,1883, for imparting to the work-holder intermittent mo; mentary to and fro transverse movements, step-by-step lengthwise movements, a semicircular movement between the lengthwise movements, and short gradual transverse movements in opposite directions just before and after the semicircular movement, all adapted to bind the edge of an eyelet-end button-hole by a series of over-edge stitches,with the needle-thread of each stitch looped about a purling-thread along the edge of the buttonhole. Fig. 2 is a perspective view of the same sewing-machine and feeding and purling mechanisms, but with the feeding mechanism mostly covered and the work-holder and the purling thread carrier in different relative positions from those in which they are shown in Fig. 1. Fig. 3is a perspective end view of portions of the same sewing-machine and mechanisms with the parts in essentially the same positions as in Fig. 1. Fig. atis aseetion ofthe purling-thread carrier and its pivoted support at or about the line .2 in Fig. 3. Fig. 5 is a partial vertical section of parts at or about the line y g in Fig. 3; and Fig. 6 is a partial vertical section at or about the line are in Fig. 2. Fig. 7 is a view on a larger scale or the under portion of the auxiliary or supplemental work presser. Fig. 7 is a side elevation partly in section of some parts of the same machine and mechanism represented in Figs. 1 and 2, the side shown in Fig. 7 being oppbsite to the one presented in those other figures. Figs, 8, 9, l0, and 11 are diagrams on a large scale illustrating the action of the mechanism shown by Figs. 1, 2, and 3 in producing a row of to and fro stitches with the needle-thread, looped around a purling-thread at each stitch. Fig. 12 represents on an enlarged scale a fabric bound along one edge by a series of over- 0 edge lock -stitches, with the needlethread looped around a pulling-thread at every stitch,

as can be made by the mechanism represented in part by Figs. 1, 2, and 3. Fig. 13 is an enlarged plan of an eyelet-end button-hole hav- 9 5 ing its edge bound all around by a row of over-edge stitches, with the needle-thread looped around a purling-thread at each stitch,

as produced by the sewing-machine and meehisms illustrated by Figs. 1, 2, and 3. Figs. 1t and 15 show on a large scale eyelet-holes partly bound by a series of over-edge stitches, with each stitch of needle-thread looped around a purling-thread,which in those figures is placed in different positions in respect to the edge of the eyelet-hole, as can be done by our invention. Figs. 8, 9,10, 11, 12, 13-, 14, and 15 represent the stitches disproportionately far apart in order to clearly show their construction and the action of our improved mechanism in producing them.

Similar parts are marked by like letters in the different figures, and the directions in which some of the parts move are indicated by adjacent arrows.

A is the bed, A the head and bracket-arm, A the needle-driving cam, A the needle-operating lever, A the needle-bar, and A the take-up lever, of the sewing-machine, from which its usual presser and work-feeding device are removed.

The work-holder shown consists of a skeleton-toothed foot, B, jointed toa spring-arm, b, which is mounted on a carrier, 0, that is furnished with a cam-lever, C", by which the foot B can be depressed and held with a springpressure upon the work Z, which is supported by a smooth surface, on or with which the work is moved momentarily to and fro and progressively by and with the work-holder. Each toand-fro movement is imparted to the workholder, while the needle-bar of the sewing-machine is elevated, and by means of the switchcam A", Fig. 1, which is fastened on the shaft of the needle-driving cam A andengages with a follower on the lever 1) that is pivoted at e on the fixed bed-plate'E of the feeding mechanism, and is connected by a link, D, with the lever L, which is pivoted at c on the plate E, and is connected with the slide F on which the carrier 0 is mounted, so that the latter and the work-holder B receive all to and fro movements of the slide F, and so that the carrier 0 with the work-holder can be moved in a straight course and in a semicircle on that slide. The straight progressive step-by-step movements are imparted to the carrier 0 and the work helder from the lever L by the link L, lever Q, which carries a pawl, Q, that engages with the ratchet wheel I, which is geared with the toothed wheel H, that engages with the toothed rack c" of the work-holder carrier. The faster semicircular movement is imparted to that carrier from the lever D by a slide, S, carrying a pawl, S, which acts on the segmental ratchet R on the wheel H; and the short progressive movements in opposite directions just before and after the semicircular movement are imparted to the slide F, and consequently to the work-holder by the cam I and lever J interposed as connecting devices between the levcrL and that slide. This work-holder and feeding mechanism are constructed and combined so as to properly feed an eyelet-end button-hole to the needle a of the sewing-machine, as fully set forth in the aforesaid Patent No. 273,727, to which reference may be had, and are not claimed herein, but are introduced'to present some good means .for imparting to the work intermittent momentary to and fro movements and step-bystep progressive movements in various directions.

The work-holder and feeding-mechanism set forth in United States Patent No. 227 ,640, or No. 261,563, and other suitable mechanisms, can be used to impart from the sewingmachine intermittent momentary to and fro movements and a progressive movement to eyelet-hole work in carryingout our invention.

. In Figs. 1 and 2 the needle-thread 10 extendsfrom the spool Y through the guiding, controlling, and adjustable tension devices at (Z, and thence up over the end of the take-up" lever A and down to the needle a, through its eye, and to the work. \Ve generally prefer Y to adjust the tension of the needle-thread in relation to the tension of the under thread. by which the loops of needle-thread are locked or chained together, so that only the loops of needle-thread w and the purling-threado shall be exposed upon and along the .upper surface and edge of the work, as indicated in Figs. 12, 18, 14, 15, and that the under thread, a, in Fig. 12 shall be in zigzag form, about as shown in that figure, to secure superior elasticity,'strength, and durability in the overedge stitching. The purling-threado extends from the spool X through an adjustable tension device at f, and thence through the fixed guides g g and intervening eye 9 on the takeup spring 9 and down through a guide-eye and the eye end h of the carrier G- to the work. The carrier G is intermittingl y moved to and fro laterally about the fixed vertical line of movement of the needle and simultaneously with and in essentially opposite directions to the intermittent momentary to and fro movements of the work-holder,so as to make the car rier G draw and hold the lowest stretch, 2/, Figs. 8, 9, 10, 11, of the purling-thread in rear of the vertical line of movement of the needle to and in front of the stretch w of needle-thread extend ing from the last preceding stitch to the needle when the latter is elevated, and so that the needle at each descent passes in front of the stretch 'v of purling'thread,which extends from its carrier G to the next, preceding stitch, as illustrated by Figs. 8, 9, 10, 11. Vhile the needle a is elevated and the work Z is being moved by and with the Work-holder B in the direction pointed by the arrow tin Figs. 2, S, and 9, from its position in Figs. 2 and 8 to its place in Figs. land 10, the delivery end h of the purling-thrcad carrier is moved curvilinearly in an opposite direction (indicated by the arrows) from its place in Figs. 2 and 8 to its position in Figs. 1, 3, and 10'; also at each movement of the work by its holder in the di rcction of the arrow 1' in Figs. 1, 10, and 11, from its place in Figs. 1 and 10 to that in Figs.

ICC

IlO

rieris movedin the opposite direction, indithread at eaclrstiftch, as clearlyindieated by- Figs; 8, 9, 10,11, and 12. l

ward beyond the edge 12 of the stitches, as repproduce greater tension on the stretch v of I erally, or by havingit formed with a suitable cated bypthe arrow q, -fro1n itsplace in Figs. l, 8, 'andlO to its position in 'Figs. 2 and 8. 1 At the sametime the tension of; the purling- 3 thread U is made so great relatively to the tension of thefneedle-thread 10 that the, latter is drawn into a loop, 10 around, the pur1ing- Tosecurethepurlingethrcad '0 with its surrounding loops to of needle-thread along the edge pot therrow of to-and-fro stitches, as

ling-thread carrier G- is arrangedor adjusted resented in Figs. 1 and 10, shall then be at a greater distance from the needle, and thereby purling-thread than when the delivery end of the purling-thrcad carrier is moved outward beyond the other edge, 0, of the row of stitches, as shown in Figs. 2 and 8.

In Figs. 8, 9, 10, and 11, the dotted line \V indicates about the line of to-and-fro movement of the delivery end h of the purling-f thread carrier when arranged to place the purling-thread with its surrounding loops of needle-thread along the edge 1) of the row of stitches. In Figs. 8 and 10 the broken line \V shows about the path of the to and-fro movement of the delivery end of the purling- 1 thread "carrier when adjusted to place the purling-thread 1; along the edge 0 of the row of'stitches, as in Fig. 14. In Fig. 10 the broken line indicates about the course of the to and fro movements of the delivery end of the purling-thread carrier when arranged to place the purling-thread in a line about midway between the two edges of the row of stitches, as shown in Fig. The carrier G- can be adjusted to move .in such different courses by suitably bending its lower partlatadjusting joint or slide.

In order to secure a more uniform location and accurate formation of the over-edge stitches along the edges of button-holes and similar work, (whether the purlingthread shall or shall not be introduced and looped about by the stitches) when the work is moved to and fro laterally and progressively by a work-holder in combination with a sewing machine, we combine with the sewing-machine, work-holder and operating mechanism an auxiliarypresser, K, adapted, arranged, and operated, so as to press and hold successive parts of the edge port-ion of the work down on its supporting-plate, while theneedle is being forced down into, remains in, and is being withdrawn from the work, and so that the presser K shall beelevated, and thereby leave the work free to be moved by the work-holder while the needle is elevated. The presser K has a toe, 2', Fig. 7, arranged to bear upon the work near the needle when the presser is forceddown upon the work, as

in F-igs.- l, 2,113,728, and 10, and the presser has an opening, 1', through which the stretcherw [and 12' of; the needle-thread and purlings thread constantly extend from the worle to the needlea, and carrier G, respectively, as shown in Figs. 8, 9, 10, 1.1. In carrying out the combination of. the

.presser K with the sewing-machine andthe work-holder having intermittent to and fro and progressive movements, as above set forth,

we support and operate that presser relatively to the movements of the work-holder byvarious devices. As an excellent means for that purpose the presser K is secured to a bar, 'K,

7, is secured at one cnd'to the arms A, and I is connected at the other end to the bar K, so as to press down on the latter. Consequently the presser K is lifted and held off from the work Z by the parts Kj a, while the needle:

bar is elevated, as indicated by dotted lines in Figs. 0 and 7", and the work-holder is in motion, and the presser is held down upon the work by the action of the spring K" on the bar K, while the needle-bar is depressed and the work-holder is at rest. The degree of pressure of the spring K" upon the bar K can be regulated by an adjusting-screw, K, mounted on the arm A, and the extent of the downward movement of the presser K can be limited by a stop, K, Fig. 7 fastened on the presser-bar over a part of the head A, as clearly shown.

In carrying out the above described combination of the pulling-thread carrier with a sewingmachine work-holder, and. means for imparting to the work-holder intermittent to and fro and progressive movements, we use various devices for supporting and operating the purlingthread carrier. As an improved means for that purpose the carrier is shown in the form of a lever, G, extending upward and secured by a pivot, I.:, Fig. 4, to a part, It, that is connected by a headed pivot, 7 ",to a part, It", on the head of the machine, so that the lever is thus secured to the head of the machine by a two-way joint. The upper end of the lever is jointed by a ball, I, and socket, I, Fig. 6, to a crank-arm, M, mounted to vibratehorizontally in or on a fixed part, I, on the head of the machine.

For imparting to the crank-arm M from a part having only a short to-and-fro movement the necessary extent of vibration to give to the pulling thread carrier G the required length of to-andfro movement, various de vices canbe employed. Asa superior means for that purpose we secure to the axis of the crank-arm M a pinion, N, and engage there- Witha toothed segment, O, pivoted at O to a part, Z", fast on the head of the machine.

For imparting to and fro movements to the toothed segment 0 from the sewing-machine,

various contrivances can be used. As an improved means for that purpose we connect the segment by a rod, T, and lever U with a switch-cam, V, which is fast on the shaft of the needle-operating cam A", and switch-cam A, which gives motion to the work-holder. The cam V is constructed and arranged so that the purling-thread carrier shall be moved in one direction at one ascent of the sewingmachine needle, and in the reverse direction at the next ascent of the needle, and simultaneously with but in opposite directions to the to and fro movements imparted to the work-holder.

By means of the pinion N and toothed segment 0 the locality of the are through which the thread'carrier G vibrates can be changed in a circular direction by simply making the same teeth of the segment engage with different teeth of the pinion.

Thelength of the arc of movement of the purling-thread carrier can be altered by means of a radial undercut slot, m, Figs. 3 and 5', in the segment 0, and a headed screw-bolt, m, ad-

justable along that slot to different distances from the pivot O of the segment by a screwnut, n, which is shown in section in Fig. 5, and serves as apivot to connect the rod T with the toothed segment.

The above described combination of the presser K, with a sewing-machine, worlcholder, and means for imparting to the work-holder intermittent to and fro progressive movements is useful without the purling-thread carrier, and is more useful in combination with that carrier.

By our invention we are enabled to use a common sewing-machinehaving aneedle moving in one line onlyin producinga row of zigzag to-andfro or over-edge stitches, having a purling-thread with the needle-thread looped around the purling-thread at each stitch, as hereinbefore set forth.

We claim as our invention- 1. The combination, with a sewing-machine furnished with awork-holder,and With means for imparting to the work-holder intermittent momentary to and fro movements and a stepby-step progressive movement, of a purlingthread carrier and devices for imparting to that carrier to and fro movements simultaneously with and in essentially opposite directions to the to and fro movements of the workholder, substantially as set forth.

2. The combination, with a sewing-machine furnished with a work-holder and with means for imparting to the work-holder intermittent momentary to and fro movements and a stepby-step progressive movement, of the supplemental presser and devices for elevating that presser at each movement of the work-holder, substantially as set forth.

3. The combination, with a sewing-machine furnished with a work-holder, and with means thread carrier and devices for imparting to that carrier to and fro movements simultaneously wit-h and in essentially opposite direc tions to theto and fro movements of the workholder, substantially as specified, and the supplemental presser and devices for elevating that presser at each movement of the workholder and purling -thread carrier, substantially as set forth.

4. The combination, with a sewing-machine furnished with a work-holder, and with means for imparting to the work-holder intermittent momentary to and fro movements and a stepby-step progressive movement, of the presser K, slide K, carrying the presser, needle-bar A, and the parts j and a", arranged on said slide and needle-bar, substantially as described.

5. The combination, with a sewing-machine provided with means for producing a row of zigzag stitches, of the thread-carrying lever G, secured by the two-way joint to the head of the machine, the crank-arm M, mounted on the head of the machine, and connected by the universal joint to said thread-carrying lever, and means forimparting to and fro movements to said crank-arm relatively to the movements of the needle of the sewing-machine, substan tially as setforth.

6. The combination, with a sewing-machine provided with means for producing a row of to-and-fro stitches, of the thread-carrying 1ever G, secured by a two-way joint to the head of the machine, the crank-arm M, mounted on the head of the machine, and connected by a universal joint to said lever, the pinion N on the shaft of the crank-arm, toothed segment 0, pivoted to the ,head of the machine, and engaging with said pinion, and means for imparting to and fro movements to said toothed segment relatively to the movements of the needle of the sewing-machine, substantially as set forth.

Witnesses as to Joseph P. Hallenbeck:

JAMES T. HOGAN, \V. I. KILPATRIOK.

Vitnesses as to Herbert L. Phelps J. H. WILLE'rs,

W. H. PARKER. 

